Day 32 - Biking down the world's most dangerous road! (La Paz to Yolosa)

I had my breakfast at 'Hostal Solaris' at 7am and met some of the other travellers going on the crazy mountain bike ride, including an Aussie girl, a Dutch guy, a Spanish couple and two Israeli guys. We were all given a bag full of equipment, including helmets and gloves and the 'Hostal Solaris' team strip!

We set off at about 8am with the bikes loaded on top of the minibus; we had two guides to look after the seven of us. We drove out of La Paz for about an hour before we reached La Cumbre at 4700 metres where the start of the downhill ride begins. (We saw plenty of other tour companies with their mountain bikers all ready to begin the big descent.) We were given a briefing on the rules of the road before being presented with our bikes, mine seemed to be the odd one out and was in quite a bad way with a loose bottom bracket and very loose cones on the rear wheel! I complained and told one of the guides it was a bit shite! They soon presented me with another as a replacement which was much better; however it was clear they don’t really maintain any of their bikes on a regular basis. 

It was great fun for the first hour descending on the tarmacked road and cycling as fast as you could by tucking into an aerodynamic position! There was a guide at front of us on his bike and a guide bringing up rear with the support van. We had to stop at a police check point, to make sure none of us were carrying any drugs! We later stopped for a sandwich and drink, which I thought was a nice thing provided by the company. After more descending on tarmacked road, it was soon time for the real descent on unpaved road to begin. We were all given further rules of the road before heading down. It was great fun riding under some of the waterfalls along the way and getting completely drenched! The lead rider (guide) was taking photographs all along the way, although as I spent a great deal of time right on his wheel during most of the trip, I may not be in very many!

Biking down the world’s most dangerous road

Biking down the world’s most dangerous road

Biking down the world’s most dangerous road

Biking down the world’s most dangerous road

Biking down the world’s most dangerous road

Biking down the world’s most dangerous road

Biking down the world’s most dangerous road

Biking down the world’s most dangerous road

Biking down the world’s most dangerous road

We finally reached Yolosa (1800m) at about 2:30pm (not really sure why we didn't ride all the way to Coiroco?). We all handed our equipment and clothing back, whilst having a quick beer at the local bar. The restaurant (our planned lunch stop) was only a five minute drive away, and when we arrived we were told we only had an hour for lunch and a shower before we had to head back to La Paz. Apparently we were running late and we should have had much more time to relax. I could only think it was due to one of the Israeli guys who was incredibly slow riding down the road and we constantly had to wait for him! The food served was ok and so too were the showers, it was just a shame we didn't have long to really enjoy the surroundings.

Yolosa - Biking down the world’s most dangerous road

We arrived back in La Paz at 'Hostal Solaris' just after 7pm, and we were told to come back at 8pm for our tee shirts and our DVD! We all said our goodbyes and I headed back to my hotel, to find my window (internal, overlooking the landing) open and so I panicked a little! When I entered my room all seemed ok after checking my backpack, although some things had been moved around. When I confronted the hotel owner, she blamed the cleaner. I said it’s not a good idea for the cleaner to leave the window open, especially when there is a sign in my room saying 'The hotel is not responsible if items go missing'! I don't think she really understood and she just said in the 6 years she had been running a hotel she has never had anything stolen!

I later went back out again to collect my tee shirt and my DVD before having my last meal in Bolivia, which was nothing special, just a very dry ham and cheese pizza!

I am certainly not looking forward to getting up at 4am to catch four flights, La Paz >Santa Cruz > Miami > Heathrow > Newcastle!!! What an amazing time I have had in Bolivia though :-)

Christmas decorations in La Paz

Day 31 - Rurrenabaque to La Paz

I made my way to the Amazonas office for 6am where I met the Swiss couple again. We finally left for the airport at about 6:20am. We all boarded the plane and we took off more or less on time! (The Amazonas plane was quite a bit smaller than the TAM one I’d arrived on, and it was quite a magical flight!)

Rurrenabaque to La Paz

Outside the airport I found a minibus to take me to San Francisco Plaza, where I walked to Hotel Montanes and checked in again. On arrival I wanted to air my tent on the roof and the lady owner seemed to have an issue with this as she followed me up to the roof and told me not to leave it out any longer than an hour? I left the tent out on the roof and visited the wonderful little restaurant with the friendly staff next door for some breakfast. Here I bumped into Daniel (who I’d spent 4 days with on the Salar De Uyuni tour) and we had a chat, he said he had a great 3 days on the Isle Del Sol.

After breakfast I returned to my hotel and started to walk up the stairs to the roof to collect my tent, but the lady owner appeared and told me she would collect it for me? She then insisted I had to roll it up in the corridor inside the hotel rather than the roof!? Strange lady, I just did as just asked!

I then decided to visit Viacha Tours and explain how my jungle tour didn’t exactly go to plan over the last few days. I spoke with a young girl who clearly understood some of the issues I raised, however she asked me to come back later in the afternoon when the boss would be around. I decided to take a slow walk over to Burger King for a treat (I’d noticed it when I first arrived), however I was a little shocked at some of the prices, they appeared more expensive than the UK!

After my visit to Burger King I made my way back to Viacha Tours, were I could see the boss was sat down. I raised some of my issues again, whilst noticing another man also sat down who seemed very interested but kept quiet throughout. It turned out he was from Mashaquipe! In just a few minutes the two men had a chat and the amount of 400 Bolivianos was agreed that should be refunded! I was more than happy with the outcome, and so decided to ask Viacha Tours about doing the famous mountain bike ride down the world's most dangerous road in the morning! I ended up booking it with Solavio Hostal/Tours for the exact sum of 400 Bolivianos.

I then decided it was time I did some Christmas shopping and visited all the shops around the Witches Market where I purchased a poncho, hats, scarfs, a mask and quite a few other things! I had my evening meal at the restaurant next to my hotel again before heading back to my hotel room to prepare for my departure at 6:45am tomorrow (as I have to be at the Solavio Hostal at 7am for breakfast, before heading off at 7:30am).

Some souvenirs & Christmas presents!

Day 30 - El Bala (including a raft ride) & back to Rurrenabaque

After a bit of a sticky night in my tent, I awoke shortly after 6am. My guide and cook were already up and so were the Swiss couple. We were told we would be going on a small hike before breakfast to see some macaws a little closer than the ones we saw yesterday. We finally reached the spot where we could view the macaws high up in the trees (on a cliff edge) however we were still quite far away.

My hand this morning! :-(

Owl butterfly in the Jungle

When we returned to camp, there were a couple of locals already present and one I recognised as the 'administrator' (the boss!), who had arrived by boat and had clearly brought some provisions (and later I would discover a few logs!). The breakfast was ok and we all had a pancake each, but I noticed the cook was frying some plantains and I asked if I could have some? I was swiftly told they were not for me! I then noticed the cook was preparing some meat and so I thought this was the lunch for another tour group, but I was then told it was for the boss and his mate! After a while I was presented with a plate of fried plantains, result!

Breakfast cooking in the Jungle!

After breakfast we packed our things and headed down to the river bank, where there was the boat waiting laden with logs. We had to leave our backpacks on the boat, and then lift off the logs and make a raft so we could all float down the river, and back to the mashaquipe camp! Our guide did most of the work, lashing the logs together in a very clever way whilst we held the logs for him. It only took about 30 minutes to make the raft and then we headed off down the river following the current (with our guide using a large stick to make sure we did not get stuck in shallow water!). It was very relaxing and very enjoyable, however after only one hour in the sun I severely burnt my legs (where I had my trousers rolled up).

On the raft!

We arrived back at the mashaquipe camp at about 11:30am. I was shown my original cabin, the bedding was missing and the cleaner (who was around) did nothing about it, and I wasn’t sure why? I was also a little annoyed on behalf of the Swiss couple who were told after arriving back they could hang around the restaurant area (until the boat arrived at 2pm to take them back to Rurrenabaque), rather than rest in their cabin! (I think they actually paid more money than me for their tour package!)

Airing my tent out! (mashaquipe camp)

Whilst all of us were having our lunch it was clear more tourists had arrived, (and all the tourists that had arrived with me were heading back to Rurrenabaque at 2pm, the same as the Swiss couple). My guide told me he had to look after some of the new tourists now and that I could probably find a new group to join and go on another jungle walk in the afternoon. Initially I really couldn't be bothered and was a little tired and so I told him I would think about it whilst having a lie down in my cabin.

It wasn't long before the heavens opened up and I began to wonder if it was worth staying in El Bala any longer. I headed back to the restaurant area where my guide and a few of the others were lounging about and I happened to mention I was thinking of leaving, as I was concerned about my flight home to England on the 5^th, and thought there might be a few issues with flights out of Rurrenabaque due to the weather. I finally decided to leave El Bala with everybody else when the boat arrived at 2pm.

Heading back to Rurrenabaque

I arrived back in Rurrenabaque at about 3:30pm. I said my goodbyes to the Swiss couple who were catching the Amazonas flight at 5:45pm. I told them hopefully I would see them shortly as I was hoping to change my Amazonas flight I had booked for tomorrow to today?

Unfortunately at the Amazonas office I was told the remaining flight at 5:45pm was fully booked, but I could change it and fly tomorrow at 7:15am at a charge of 30 Bolivianos. I decided to pay the 30 Bolivianos and fly out in the morning. (If it is delayed, I still have some time to play with!)

I later had something to eat in Rurrenabaque and walked around the market. I was looking for a cheap watch as mine had stopped about 2 hours after I was stung by a wasp in the jungle, (very strange!) and a pair of trousers as I only had the one pair. However I failed to buy either and returned to my hotel with a bag of washing powder! On my return I bumped into the Swiss couple who told me their flight had been cancelled, (yes  cancelled and NOT fully booked!?) and rescheduled for tomorrow at 7:15am!!!

Rurrenabaque

The Beni River - View from Rurrenabaque

I will be up at 5:30am, as I have to be at the Amazonas office to catch their bus at 6am to take me to the airport. I really hope the flight is not delayed!

Day 29 - El Bala & a trek in the jungle

I was up at 7am and met the Swiss couple and our guide for breakfast. The other teams had already had breakfast, and were just about to leave and head off into the jungle. The Swiss couple decided to speak with the guide about camping out in the jungle as this wasn't mentioned by the tour agency they had booked with. The guide told them they didn't have to camp if they didn't want to, but in the end they decided to go ahead with it. I offered to take and pitch my tent for them; I think the guide was grateful of this!

I decided not to query my tour package, although I clearly knew I wouldn't be camping a second night as I have to return tomorrow as the Swiss couple are flying back to La Paz! I am also wondering if I will still have a single cabin waiting for me on my return? I also decided to charge my tablet in the restaurant area (as advised when I first arrived), but the 'administrator' made a point that I was using all the power and asked how long I planned to charge my tablet! It seemed strange as it was daylight, and in the restaurant they had the lights on! I later discovered the 'administrator' was the boss, and he had ten brothers all involved in Mashaquipe, (so my guide told me!)

The four of us left at about 8:30am and headed into the jungle, we all had to carry plenty of water as we would need it for the return trip the following day. Again we saw plenty of insects along the way, and a few tiny frogs. I managed to grab a few close up photographs of some butterflies but that was about it.

Insect in the Jungle

Pupa in the Jungle

Spider in the Jungle

Butterfly in the Jungle

We finally reached our camp site (not a camp site as such!) at lunch time, where there was a lady in a make shift kitchen already preparing our lunch. We were all amazed at the amount of flies and wasps around the place, (because of the food). We all sat down to some rice, lettuce and an omelette, which didn’t satisfy any of us! After lunch the Swiss couple were shown where to hook up their mosquito nets (given to them and some mats by our guide). I think they were a little shocked at the sleeping arrangements! I offered my tent, but they declined.

Butterfly in the Jungle (Near my tent!)

Whilst our guide was at the kitchen area I informed the Swiss couple I was still hungry, they laughed and agreed the meal was dreadful, and we deserved better as we had all paid a lot of money for this tour. We decided to head back to the kitchen area and tell our guide. He looked a bit disappointed, but he did ask the lady to make us some coffee and popcorn, which filled a very small hole!

After our extra feed and at about 3pm, we all headed off into the jungle again where our guide informed us we were heading to a popular view point. It was quite a tough ten minute climb followed by a twenty minute hike to a wonderful view point where we spotted some red and blue macaws flying around in the tree tops. However there was a moment of sadness when we all saw the memorial remembering a young Israeli guy who fell off the edge and died in 2007. After soaking up the wonderful views we headed back to the camp for a rest before our evening meal would be served. We were all hoping for a massive feed as we were all still very hungry!

The Tuichi River in El Bala (which joins the Beni River) 

The Tuichi River in El Bala (which joins the Beni River)

The Tuichi River in El Bala (which joins the Beni River)

We had our evening meal of pasta under candle light at around 7pm, which wasn't a bad feed. Our guide informed us that after our meal we would be heading into the jungle again to seek some insects! We finally headed out at about 9pm and the lady cook also joined us! It wasn't long before we spotted a tarantula up a tree which was quite big! We also spotted a very bizarre insect that resembled a leaf and before too long we were seeing quite a few tarantulas!  After about an hour we headed back to camp, where we all had some hot chocolate before everyone went under their mosquito nets and I went inside my tent for the night.

Leaf insect in the jungle at night

Tarantula in the jungle at night

Day 28 - Rurrenabaque to El Bala

I had my breakfast at my hotel which wasn't bad, (they served good coffee) and afterwards I made my way to the Mashaquipe office for 8:30am. There were quite a few backpacker couples already gathering and before too long we were all led down to the Beni River by a couple of guides.

We all boarded a boat and it was great to be travelling along the river. Our first stop was to purchase our Parque National Madidi tickets at the reduced cost of 110 Bolivianos! We all then boarded the boat again, where we travelled for about an hour before stopping along the river bank. Here we visited a local community who process sugar cane into pure sugar and honey. We all had a go at pushing the large handle that turned the three big drums that crushes the sugar cane, which was great fun! The juice tasted great with a twist of lime and orange! We also had a taste of the sugar block which is produced and is sold for 10 Bolivianos (a block) at the market in Rurrenbaque, which seemed madness considering the amount of work involved in producing it. We were also shown some other fruits in the jungle including and tasting the coca fruit, which wasn't quite ripe yet.

View from boat - Rurrenabaque to El Bala

View from boat - Rurrenabaque to El Bala

Processing Sugar Cane

Processing Sugar Cane

Processing Sugar Cane

We boarded our boat again and travelled for about a further 90 minutes before docking at El Bala, the home of Mashaquipe. We were all shown our cabins, most were in dormitory style, but a Swiss couple had their own cabin and so did I. Within 15 minutes of arrival we were all sat around a table eating a huge meal consisting of plantain, rice and chicken amongst other things, which was finished off by some melon. After lunch we were split into groups, I was with the Swiss couple and we were all told we would be having a walk into the jungle later in the afternoon. We all had time for an afternoon's nap which was great.

The Swiss couple and I with our guide set off at 3pm and headed down to the river bank, where we travelled by boat south along the river for about 20 minutes before disembarking and heading off into the jungle. Our guide showed us many things, including trees that produced sap to treat acne, and a tree that contains poison which can be used at the end of an arrow tip! We also came across a tree that had bark that tasted and smelled like garlic! We spotted many ants along the way, and we also came across a wasp’s nest where I was subsequently stung on the hand! We also stumbled across a tiny frog and a very large butterfly. 

Heading off to explore the jungle around El Bala

Frog in the Jungle

Owl Butterfly in the Jungle

The Tuichi River in El Bala

After a good two hours walking in the jungle, we returned to the boat where we headed back to camp for our evening meal of fish, rice and pasta. One of the other teams had apparently spotted a huge spider, maybe my time will come later!

Whilst I was sat with my guide and the Swiss couple during our evening meal, he explained that we would be heading into the jungle in the morning and camping during the night before heading back the following day. I happened to mention that I was supposed to be doing the '4 Day Magic Tour' which involves two nights in the jungle? My guide seemed a little confused and had to call over a nearby man (whom he referred to as the 'administrator'), who basically just said 'don't worry' as he would 'work something out' ? I also learned that the Swiss couple had no intentions of spending a night in the jungle, as their package involved spending two nights staying in their cabin! (I think they are going to say something in the morning at breakfast) I will just see how things develop.

On our return to our cabins after our evening meal we spotted a cicada, a snake and a frog! 

Day 27 - La Paz to Rurrenabaque (Flying)

Writing this blog in the military airport in La Paz!

I was taken to the military airport at 5:30am by the hotels owner's father (who was a very nice man, although clearly a little unsure as regards to driving!) On arrival I overheard a conversation about my flight being delayed until 10am! I later got talking with a German couple who were also booked on the same flight who told me they had tried to fly out on a couple of occasions to Rurrenbaque before and on both occasions had failed miserably with multiple delays, and in the end they gave up and travelled elsewhere in Bolivia! (The second time they were actually on the plane and were subsequently told to get off at the very last minute!)

It is looking as if I may have to spend the night in Rurrenbaque and hopefully start my jungle tour on the following day. Things are becoming a little tight as I fly home to England on the 5th December, and I have no intentions of being in the jungle the day before I fly back!

I've now bought two coffees from both the ladies selling coffee on the ground floor at the airport for 3 bolivianos each, and very nice they were too. Whilst trying to kill more time I visited the upstairs restaurant and purchased another coffee for 8 Bolivianos and it was awful!  Now there’s a tip!

We finally took off at 10:30am and it was an amazing flight heading deep into the amazon. We landed on a stretch of a dirt track otherwise known as a runway! The first thing that hits you is the intense heat. As I walked through the airport building I noticed somebody holding a sign with my name on it and so I introduced myself. I was greeted by a nice friendly man from Mashaquipe who told me he had his car waiting nearby. Whilst waiting under the nearby mango tree for my backpack to be taken off the plane I asked if the tour was going ahead today or tomorrow. He advised it was too late to start the tour today and it will be best to wait until tomorrow. I collected my backpack and we drove into town to the Mashaquipe office.

Flying to Rurrenabaque - Amazing views

Flying to Rurrenabaque - Amazing views

Rurrenabaque Airport

At the Mashaquipe office I was introduced to a lady who took my receipt from the company I had booked the tour with in La Paz (Viacha Tours). I enquired about booking my return flight to La Paz and the lady said she could organise it for me at a price of 651 Bolivianos. I was a little shocked at this price, especially as TAM had charged me only 470 Bolivianos. I declined her offer and advised I would book the flight myself at the Amazonas office nearby. I arranged to be back at their office in the morning at 8:30am for the start of my jungle tour.

I then visited the Amazonas office, which was only 5 minute's walk around the corner. After some searching on the computer the assistant finally quoted me a price of 650 Bolivianos! I paid for my return flight to La Paz on the 3rd December at 5:45pm. Later I walked past the TAM office and noticed outside they had all their flight times for the week, and I could see I could have flown with them early in the morning on the 4th. However, I was glad I was arriving back in La Paz earlier as it will give me a bit of time to relax before flying home.

I then headed to the hotel 'Los Tucanes de Rurr' and booked a room for the night for the price of 90 Bolivianos which included a bathroom. The place seemed ok; however I was a little concerned as to how long the music would continue to play in the court yard!? I also didn't like the sign in my bathroom saying 'You will be charged extra if you have a shower over 10 minutes'! (Not sure how they will find out?)

I decided to have some lunch at a restaurant called 'El Majo' which was very tasty. After lunch I walked along down by the river before visiting ‘La Cabana' for a coffee, but I was subsequently told they didn't serve coffee! I had a good walk around the town and bought a cold drink and a brownie cake! (Advertised outside a small hut, which was served by a lovely lady). I then headed back to my hotel room with plenty of water at hand!

The Beni River in Rurrenabaque

Rurrenabaque

Rurrenabaque

I popped out in the evening for my meal and tried 'La Cabana' again and had a nice 'Pescdo de Plancha', although I thought it was a little pricey. I then proceeded to look for somewhere that could serve me a coffee but failed miserably, unless I ordered breakfast! I decided to head back to my hotel for an early night.

Day 26 - La Paz

I arrived in La Paz at the main bus station (to the north) at 7:30am after my 12 hour bus journey. Most of the passengers jumped off at Oruro and so there were only a few of us left who jumped off in La Paz.

Daniel seemed to need a little help when arriving, so I suggested we walk into town together and have breakfast (as I knew he would need to make his way to the cemetery district for his bus to Copacabana and I needed to sort my trip out for Rurrenabaque). After walking the 15 minutes to Sagarnaga Street we visited the café called 'Montanes' and had breakfast which was served by a lovely lady. The café was next to a hotel (also called ‘Montanes’) and so Daniel enquired about a room for later in the week when he returns from Copacabana. After breakfast another lady showed us a couple of double rooms at a price of 90 Bolivianos (no breakfast, but with Wi-Fi), which I thought was still a good price. Daniel said he would definitely book a room on his return from Copacabana, and I told the lady I may book the room for tonight if I could not organise my flight to Rurrenabaque today.

I later walked with Daniel as far as Santa Cruz road, to show him where to catch a taxi or a minibus to the cemetery district. Here we shook hands and parted company, we may well bump into each other at the weekend back in La Paz?

I headed back along Sagarnaga Street and visited 'Madidi Travel', but they were closed even though it was nearly 9:30am and they were supposed to open at 9am? I decided to visit 'Montanes' café again for another coffee and also to kill a little time. After 10am I visited 'Madidi Travel' again but they were still closed! I visited another tour company nearby and decided to book my flight to Rurrenabaque. I wanted to book a return flight (10% discount), but Amazonas did not publish dates further than two days ahead, so I just booked the one way ticket at a price of 470 Bolivianos for tomorrow at 7am. (No flights left for today?)

I then headed back to the hotel (Montanes) and booked a room for the night. After settling in I headed back out again and visited 'Dolphin Travels', who gave me a price of 900 Bolivianos for a 3 day jungle tour, and when I enquired about having my own room/cabin they gave me a price of 1000 Bolivianos which I thought was ok, although I got the impression I might not get much for my money? I left and decided to think about it and whilst walking around I discovered 'Madidi Travels' nearby (obviously the place I should have visited earlier!) I was initially shown a package for a 3 day jungle tour for the grand total of 2000 Bolivianos, and when I enquired about having my own room/cabin I was told it would be double! I nearly choked and walked out in disgust!

I decided to have an early lunch and visited the Cuban restaurant on Sagarnaga St, and had a delicious chicken meal. It was probably one of the nicest meals I have had in Bolivia! 

After lunch I decided to visit one more tour agency, and ended up walking into Viacha Tours on Sagarnaga St. There was a friendly man inside who spoke very good English (I think he was Dutch). He showed me one package for a 3 day jungle tour at a cost of just over 500 Bolivanos which I thought was remarkably cheap, he called it the backpacker's choice! He also gave me information on Mashaquipe Tour agency, which I liked and I was keen on their 'Magic Tour' which consisted of 4 days and 3 nights which would include my own cabin, with two nights camping in the jungle. They also said they would waiver the 15% supplementary charge for a single person. I finally settled with this tour and we agreed a price of 1600 Bolivianos. They informed me that when I arrive in Rurrenbaque  airport in the morning I would be greeted by one of the guides from Mashaquipe.  (When I arrive in Rurrenbaque, I will look into booking my return flight to La Paz hopefully on the 2nd December in the evening.)

The hotel owner's father has agreed to take me to the airport at 5:30am (60 Bolivianos) and they have also allowed me to leave some of my gear at the hotel whilst I am away in the jungle for a few days which is great.

Sagarnaga St in La Paz