Day 28 - Rurrenabaque to El Bala

I had my breakfast at my hotel which wasn't bad, (they served good coffee) and afterwards I made my way to the Mashaquipe office for 8:30am. There were quite a few backpacker couples already gathering and before too long we were all led down to the Beni River by a couple of guides.

We all boarded a boat and it was great to be travelling along the river. Our first stop was to purchase our Parque National Madidi tickets at the reduced cost of 110 Bolivianos! We all then boarded the boat again, where we travelled for about an hour before stopping along the river bank. Here we visited a local community who process sugar cane into pure sugar and honey. We all had a go at pushing the large handle that turned the three big drums that crushes the sugar cane, which was great fun! The juice tasted great with a twist of lime and orange! We also had a taste of the sugar block which is produced and is sold for 10 Bolivianos (a block) at the market in Rurrenbaque, which seemed madness considering the amount of work involved in producing it. We were also shown some other fruits in the jungle including and tasting the coca fruit, which wasn't quite ripe yet.

View from boat - Rurrenabaque to El Bala

View from boat - Rurrenabaque to El Bala

Processing Sugar Cane

Processing Sugar Cane

Processing Sugar Cane

We boarded our boat again and travelled for about a further 90 minutes before docking at El Bala, the home of Mashaquipe. We were all shown our cabins, most were in dormitory style, but a Swiss couple had their own cabin and so did I. Within 15 minutes of arrival we were all sat around a table eating a huge meal consisting of plantain, rice and chicken amongst other things, which was finished off by some melon. After lunch we were split into groups, I was with the Swiss couple and we were all told we would be having a walk into the jungle later in the afternoon. We all had time for an afternoon's nap which was great.

The Swiss couple and I with our guide set off at 3pm and headed down to the river bank, where we travelled by boat south along the river for about 20 minutes before disembarking and heading off into the jungle. Our guide showed us many things, including trees that produced sap to treat acne, and a tree that contains poison which can be used at the end of an arrow tip! We also came across a tree that had bark that tasted and smelled like garlic! We spotted many ants along the way, and we also came across a wasp’s nest where I was subsequently stung on the hand! We also stumbled across a tiny frog and a very large butterfly. 

Heading off to explore the jungle around El Bala

Frog in the Jungle

Owl Butterfly in the Jungle

The Tuichi River in El Bala

After a good two hours walking in the jungle, we returned to the boat where we headed back to camp for our evening meal of fish, rice and pasta. One of the other teams had apparently spotted a huge spider, maybe my time will come later!

Whilst I was sat with my guide and the Swiss couple during our evening meal, he explained that we would be heading into the jungle in the morning and camping during the night before heading back the following day. I happened to mention that I was supposed to be doing the '4 Day Magic Tour' which involves two nights in the jungle? My guide seemed a little confused and had to call over a nearby man (whom he referred to as the 'administrator'), who basically just said 'don't worry' as he would 'work something out' ? I also learned that the Swiss couple had no intentions of spending a night in the jungle, as their package involved spending two nights staying in their cabin! (I think they are going to say something in the morning at breakfast) I will just see how things develop.

On our return to our cabins after our evening meal we spotted a cicada, a snake and a frog! 

Day 27 - La Paz to Rurrenabaque (Flying)

Writing this blog in the military airport in La Paz!

I was taken to the military airport at 5:30am by the hotels owner's father (who was a very nice man, although clearly a little unsure as regards to driving!) On arrival I overheard a conversation about my flight being delayed until 10am! I later got talking with a German couple who were also booked on the same flight who told me they had tried to fly out on a couple of occasions to Rurrenbaque before and on both occasions had failed miserably with multiple delays, and in the end they gave up and travelled elsewhere in Bolivia! (The second time they were actually on the plane and were subsequently told to get off at the very last minute!)

It is looking as if I may have to spend the night in Rurrenbaque and hopefully start my jungle tour on the following day. Things are becoming a little tight as I fly home to England on the 5th December, and I have no intentions of being in the jungle the day before I fly back!

I've now bought two coffees from both the ladies selling coffee on the ground floor at the airport for 3 bolivianos each, and very nice they were too. Whilst trying to kill more time I visited the upstairs restaurant and purchased another coffee for 8 Bolivianos and it was awful!  Now there’s a tip!

We finally took off at 10:30am and it was an amazing flight heading deep into the amazon. We landed on a stretch of a dirt track otherwise known as a runway! The first thing that hits you is the intense heat. As I walked through the airport building I noticed somebody holding a sign with my name on it and so I introduced myself. I was greeted by a nice friendly man from Mashaquipe who told me he had his car waiting nearby. Whilst waiting under the nearby mango tree for my backpack to be taken off the plane I asked if the tour was going ahead today or tomorrow. He advised it was too late to start the tour today and it will be best to wait until tomorrow. I collected my backpack and we drove into town to the Mashaquipe office.

Flying to Rurrenabaque - Amazing views

Flying to Rurrenabaque - Amazing views

Rurrenabaque Airport

At the Mashaquipe office I was introduced to a lady who took my receipt from the company I had booked the tour with in La Paz (Viacha Tours). I enquired about booking my return flight to La Paz and the lady said she could organise it for me at a price of 651 Bolivianos. I was a little shocked at this price, especially as TAM had charged me only 470 Bolivianos. I declined her offer and advised I would book the flight myself at the Amazonas office nearby. I arranged to be back at their office in the morning at 8:30am for the start of my jungle tour.

I then visited the Amazonas office, which was only 5 minute's walk around the corner. After some searching on the computer the assistant finally quoted me a price of 650 Bolivianos! I paid for my return flight to La Paz on the 3rd December at 5:45pm. Later I walked past the TAM office and noticed outside they had all their flight times for the week, and I could see I could have flown with them early in the morning on the 4th. However, I was glad I was arriving back in La Paz earlier as it will give me a bit of time to relax before flying home.

I then headed to the hotel 'Los Tucanes de Rurr' and booked a room for the night for the price of 90 Bolivianos which included a bathroom. The place seemed ok; however I was a little concerned as to how long the music would continue to play in the court yard!? I also didn't like the sign in my bathroom saying 'You will be charged extra if you have a shower over 10 minutes'! (Not sure how they will find out?)

I decided to have some lunch at a restaurant called 'El Majo' which was very tasty. After lunch I walked along down by the river before visiting ‘La Cabana' for a coffee, but I was subsequently told they didn't serve coffee! I had a good walk around the town and bought a cold drink and a brownie cake! (Advertised outside a small hut, which was served by a lovely lady). I then headed back to my hotel room with plenty of water at hand!

The Beni River in Rurrenabaque

Rurrenabaque

Rurrenabaque

I popped out in the evening for my meal and tried 'La Cabana' again and had a nice 'Pescdo de Plancha', although I thought it was a little pricey. I then proceeded to look for somewhere that could serve me a coffee but failed miserably, unless I ordered breakfast! I decided to head back to my hotel for an early night.

Day 26 - La Paz

I arrived in La Paz at the main bus station (to the north) at 7:30am after my 12 hour bus journey. Most of the passengers jumped off at Oruro and so there were only a few of us left who jumped off in La Paz.

Daniel seemed to need a little help when arriving, so I suggested we walk into town together and have breakfast (as I knew he would need to make his way to the cemetery district for his bus to Copacabana and I needed to sort my trip out for Rurrenabaque). After walking the 15 minutes to Sagarnaga Street we visited the café called 'Montanes' and had breakfast which was served by a lovely lady. The café was next to a hotel (also called ‘Montanes’) and so Daniel enquired about a room for later in the week when he returns from Copacabana. After breakfast another lady showed us a couple of double rooms at a price of 90 Bolivianos (no breakfast, but with Wi-Fi), which I thought was still a good price. Daniel said he would definitely book a room on his return from Copacabana, and I told the lady I may book the room for tonight if I could not organise my flight to Rurrenabaque today.

I later walked with Daniel as far as Santa Cruz road, to show him where to catch a taxi or a minibus to the cemetery district. Here we shook hands and parted company, we may well bump into each other at the weekend back in La Paz?

I headed back along Sagarnaga Street and visited 'Madidi Travel', but they were closed even though it was nearly 9:30am and they were supposed to open at 9am? I decided to visit 'Montanes' café again for another coffee and also to kill a little time. After 10am I visited 'Madidi Travel' again but they were still closed! I visited another tour company nearby and decided to book my flight to Rurrenabaque. I wanted to book a return flight (10% discount), but Amazonas did not publish dates further than two days ahead, so I just booked the one way ticket at a price of 470 Bolivianos for tomorrow at 7am. (No flights left for today?)

I then headed back to the hotel (Montanes) and booked a room for the night. After settling in I headed back out again and visited 'Dolphin Travels', who gave me a price of 900 Bolivianos for a 3 day jungle tour, and when I enquired about having my own room/cabin they gave me a price of 1000 Bolivianos which I thought was ok, although I got the impression I might not get much for my money? I left and decided to think about it and whilst walking around I discovered 'Madidi Travels' nearby (obviously the place I should have visited earlier!) I was initially shown a package for a 3 day jungle tour for the grand total of 2000 Bolivianos, and when I enquired about having my own room/cabin I was told it would be double! I nearly choked and walked out in disgust!

I decided to have an early lunch and visited the Cuban restaurant on Sagarnaga St, and had a delicious chicken meal. It was probably one of the nicest meals I have had in Bolivia! 

After lunch I decided to visit one more tour agency, and ended up walking into Viacha Tours on Sagarnaga St. There was a friendly man inside who spoke very good English (I think he was Dutch). He showed me one package for a 3 day jungle tour at a cost of just over 500 Bolivanos which I thought was remarkably cheap, he called it the backpacker's choice! He also gave me information on Mashaquipe Tour agency, which I liked and I was keen on their 'Magic Tour' which consisted of 4 days and 3 nights which would include my own cabin, with two nights camping in the jungle. They also said they would waiver the 15% supplementary charge for a single person. I finally settled with this tour and we agreed a price of 1600 Bolivianos. They informed me that when I arrive in Rurrenbaque  airport in the morning I would be greeted by one of the guides from Mashaquipe.  (When I arrive in Rurrenbaque, I will look into booking my return flight to La Paz hopefully on the 2nd December in the evening.)

The hotel owner's father has agreed to take me to the airport at 5:30am (60 Bolivianos) and they have also allowed me to leave some of my gear at the hotel whilst I am away in the jungle for a few days which is great.

Sagarnaga St in La Paz

Day 25 - Puerto Chubica-Atulcha to Uyuni (Day 4 of Salar de Uyuni Tour) & a night bus to La Paz

We were all up at 4:30am as the plan (I thought) was to see the sun rising over Incahuasi Island, however it turned out we were just going to watch the sun rise over the salt lake itself. It was quite cold when we stepped out onto the salt lake at 6am; but it was amazing to be standing on the largest salt lake in the world whilst the sun was slowly rising.

Salar De Uyuni

Salar De Uyuni

Salar De Uyuni

After taking a few photographs we then made our way to Incahuasi Island, here we had our breakfast which included some cake (baked by Javier’s sister?) which was great and just what we all needed. We spent about an hour and a half exploring this wonderful island before heading off on foot along the salt lake before Javier picked us up.

Incahuasi Island

Incahuasi Island

Incahuasi Island

After driving for a while along the salt lake, Javier then stopped and told us we had about an hour to take some crazy photographs! Javier also showed us a small hole in the lake and we were all amazed when he showed us the amazing crystals that form underneath. I decided to break a piece off as a souvenir!

Salar De Uyuni

Salar De Uyuni

Salar De Uyuni

Salt Crystals under the Salar De Uyuni

We then carried on further long the salt lake and stopped at the Salt Hotel, which was a bit of an anti-climax, (I am not sure why we really bothered). Further on we spotted the amazing piles of salt drying out before being exported, which made for some dynamic photographs.

Salar De Uyuni

Salt Hotel on the Salar De Uyuni

Salt Hotel on the Salar De Uyuni

Salt Piles on the Salar De Uyuni

We finally stopped at the salt craft market for a walk around before having lunch together. It was here that Javier presented us with a survey to fill out; asking our thoughts on how we thought the four days went! Clearly we all had a lot to say and so we let Joanne do all the writing, she managed to fill the back of the survey as well! When we handed it back to Javier he clearly looked a little concerned, and later when we were driving to the train cemetery he asked us what we had wrote. We tried to tell him that what we wrote was addressed at the company and not at him; although we got the impression he didn't really believe us.

When we arrived at the train cemetery we all had a good look around and it was I, Frasier and Joanne who were back at the vehicle first. Daniel and Rob continued to mess about, even when Javier hooted his horn they just continued to ignore him and I don't think he was too impressed. (I think Javier was keen to get back to Tupiza as soon as possible.)

The Train Cemetery in Uyuni

The Train Cemetery in Uyuni

The Train Cemetery in Uyuni

When we were finally dropped off in Uyuni, we decided to have a 'whip-round' for Javier. However when we all shook his hand it was clear something was bothering him. He obviously thought we complained about him on the survey, and so he chose not to accept our money and quickly drove off! I thought it was such a shame.

We then all said our goodbyes, although we knew we would probably bump into each other in town over the next few hours! Frasier and Joanne were catching a bus to Chile later in the afternoon. Rob and Daniel parted, (Rob appeared to want to keep in contact with Daniel, but I don't think Daniel was so keen!) Rob was staying the night in Uyuni before heading to Potosi, Daniel was a little indecisive about heading back to La Paz. I headed off in search of Amazonas and TAM as I wanted to see if I could fly out of Uyuni today and then onwards to Rurrenebaque?

I was told by Amazonas there was a flight to La Paz later in the afternoon, but I would have to catch a flight to Rurrenebaque on the following day. TAM weren't even flying out to La Paz today. I decided the money it would have cost me just wasn't worth it & thought the night bus back to La Paz would be my best option. Whilst heading back out of the town, I bumped into Frasier and Joanne and had a chat and we all agreed it was a shame about Javier not accepting our money. I bid them farewell and a safe trip to Chile.

I booked my ticket to La Paz on the 8pm bus (80 Bolivianos) and then made my way to the nearby 'Uyuni Hostal' and asked if I could have a room for 3 hours. The lady owner agreed at a price of 20 Bolivianos. She showed me one of the most depressing rooms I have stayed at whilst being in Bolivia!

I popped out for something to eat and then headed back to the hotel for a shower and some rest. The shower was locked and I had to ask the lady to unlock it, she subsequently told me not to take any more than five minutes! We had a small argument and I ignored her and took ten minutes!

My bus was ready to leave at 8pm and I spotted Daniel jumping on board and sitting near the front. However later he was told to move and ended up sitting in front of me, where we exchanged a few words.

I must have slept quite a bit as the journey did not seem to take that long, we stopped half way for about twenty minutes for coffee and a quick bite to eat.

Day 24 - Huajllajara to Puerto Chubica-Atulcha (Day 3 of Salar de Uyuni Tour)

We had pancakes for breakfast which was a welcome change; however nothing could really help with the obvious atmosphere that surrounded the team. Personally I was just glad to be on the move and was looking forward to the tour ending.  Whilst loading our bags onto the vehicle we were introduced to Javier's friends, although when we did finally leave we didn't exactly leave in convoy!

Our first destination was the Laguna Colorado again, and it was wonderful to see it at sunrise. On my return to the vehicle Rob made a comment suggesting I took too long walking around the lake, and that we had to be careful as the other vehicles would get ahead of us and we would have no backup! I just told him we were surrounded by other vehicles and there was no need to worry, which was true as it was obvious on this stretch of the tour there were many more tourists around. Rob never said anything, and it basically just made matters worse between us.

Lagunda Colorada

Lagunda Colorada

The desert of Siloli

The Stone Tree in the desert of Siloli

We stopped for lunch near Mt. Ollague where Javier did wonders with some chicken and salad. After lunch we visited quite a few more Lagunas where I basically explored them all by myself whilst interacting with Frasier and Joanne,  and hardly speaking with Rob or Daniel as I really couldn't be bothered. I helped Fraser and Joanne capture some funny photographs when we reached Salar De Chiguana along the rail track which was all good fun!

Mt. Ollague

Laguna Honda

Laguna Honda

Laguna Honda

Laguna Hedionda

Laguna Hedionda

Laguna Characota

Laguna Canapa

Salar De Chiguana

Salar De Chiguana

Our final sight for the day was the bizarre Necropolis at San Juan (10 Bolivianos). I wasn't sure what I really made of this very strange graveyard, with the remains of some of the corpses being displayed, however it was pleasant enough just walking around.

San Juan - Necropolis

San Juan - Necropolis

We finally reached our accommodation for the night on the edges of the Salar de Uyuni salt lake in Puerto Chubica-Atulcha, which was a hotel made from salt which was actually very cool (especially the entrance area). We were all together again in one room with the beds made of salt and the floor also covered in salt.

Javier mentioned that he had to help a friend fix his car and that lunch would be served at 8:30pm which I thought was a little late especially as we were told we had to be up at 4:45am the following morning! He had obviously asked for some help from another cook on another team to prepare our meal, (which we later learned was his sister). Conversation at the dinner table was ok, although Rob started taking the piss out of Daniel, and basically talked a load of shite! (A couple of glasses of wine was all that was needed!) Nothing was mentioned about our vehicle, which was strange as we were never really travelling in convoy with Javier's friends after all! (There were plenty of tourists and vehicles about however.)  I gave up waiting for my dessert  at 10pm and went to bed!

Downside of the funky salt hotel was that there was only one shower and you had to pay 10 Bolivianos to use it!

*I know that I have mentioned visiting Laguna Hedionda today as well as yesterday, which I admit is a little misleading! However after looking back at my four day print-out of the tour supplied by the company it does actually state that we visited Laguna Hedionda on two separate days!? Clearly a typo I suspect. If anybody looking at my pictures or indeed has done the same tour with 'Hostal Valle Hermoso' then feel free to enlighten me!

Day 23 - San Antonio De Lipez to Huajllajara (Day 2 of Salar de Uyuni Tour)

We were all up at 5:30am and had our breakfast which consisted of stale bread and jam with coffee and tea which wasn’t particularly great for only our second day! We finally left just before 7am after loading all our bags on the top of the vehicle. We decided we would rotate the seating arrangements during the day so everybody had a fair share of the front seat and the middle seats (as the back seats were a little cramped).

Our first visit was the 'Ghost Town' at an altitude of 4690 metres which was nice to walk around early in the morning. Unfortunately just before we arrived at Lake Morejon we had a puncture; however Javier managed to change the wheel in about 30 minutes.

The 'Ghost Town' (at an altitude of 4690 metres)

Puncture!

Lake Morejon

Soon we were exploring more lakes and Lagunas before finally stopping for lunch. I was a little surprised we did not have a stove with us as it would have been nice to have had a hot drink, rather than just water and coke! Javier did however take great pride in preparing our food for us.

At Laguna Hedionda we punctured again, but luckily there was a couple of other vehicles with us as well and the drivers were able to give Javier a helping hand. As we had already used the spare wheel we now had to change the inner tube, so rather ingeniously one of the other drivers rode over the tyre to release it from the rim, and it was then replaced with a new inner tube!  It was all very entertaining for us to watch and before too long we were on our way again.

Another puncture! (Laguna Hedionda)

Laguna Hedionda

Laguna Hedionda

Laguna Hedionda

Unfortunately when we reached Kollpa Laguna we punctured yet again! And it was the same wheel?  We had only been driving for about 10 minutes after leaving Laguna Hedionda and so we were either very unlucky or the original puncture wasn't repaired properly? (I do remember seeing the inner tube being 'pinched' when it was replaced?) Javier clearly looked a little frustrated, and so we all offered to help. After some time Javier eventually just replaced the wheel with the original one, and just pushed in the screw (that had actually caused the puncture in the first place) and pumped the tyre up and was clearly hoping it would stay up!

Kollpa Laguna

Once we all jumped back into the vehicle there was clearly a lot of concern. Daniel wanted to stay the night at Kollpa Laguna (It had about 3 buildings) and wait until morning for help! By now it was about 3pm and no traffic had passed us while we were fixing the puncture. Rob was also in a kind of panic, suggesting we should cut the tour short for the day. Frasier, Joanne and I were all in agreement that we should continue as planned and when we reached our accommodation for the night, Javier could then look into fixing the spare tyre. We agreed there was an element of risk but we were confident that Javier knew what he was doing and we really did not want to miss any of the tour as we all had come a very long way and paid a lot of money. After half an hour of discussion which was all a little heated and tense, it was agreed we should carry on.

When we reached Laguna Blanca unfortunately tensions began to build up again. Rob wanted to stay the night at the nearby building and Daniel also agreed! They said it was too risky to drive south to Lagunda Verde and run the risk of puncturing again. I thought they were both over reacting a little and I made my views quite clear, and I could see they weren't impressed. Frasier, Joanne and I did not want to miss any of the sights; however after another heated debate we decided to drive only as far as the 'Rocas de Dali' and very reluctantly miss the Laguna Verde.

Rocas de Dali

On our return from 'Rocas de Dali' we stopped at the Laguna Blanca for the agreed 7 minutes dip in the hot pool as demanded by Rob and Daniel! I couldn't be bothered to change my clothes and so just dipped my feet in the water, whilst the others all had a proper dip. Already in the pool was a Dutch cyclist who had cycled from Peru, and so Rob was obviously keen to talk with him. After about 25 minutes both Rob and Daniel managed to drag themselves out of the pool and back to the vehicle! Tense discussions started again, both Rob and Daniel were unsure if they wanted to continue as they thought they may become stranded if we were to puncture again! However, eventually we did finally leave and it was a great relief to stop at the amazing Geysers and Fumaroles. (Concerns were put behind us, at least for a little while!)

Laguna Blanca

Geysers and Fumaroles

Geysers and Fumaroles

Geysers and Fumaroles

Geysers and Fumaroles

Geysers and Fumaroles

Our final stop of the day was Laguna Colorado which was very nice especially with the sun setting. Javier informed us we would return again in the morning. We finally reached our accommodation for the night at Huajllajara without any further punctures or arguments!

Laguna Colorado

Laguna Colorado

During our evening meal it was clear Rob and Daniel were still concerned about the 'iffy' tyre we were driving on, and the flat spare tyre we were carrying. In their defence we all agreed that Javier should be doing something to sort out the issue, so we all would be comfortable in the morning when leaving. Rob and Daniel also suggested we should stay an extra night in Huajllajara if need be, which I thought was ridiculous. Myself, Frasier and Joanne had no intentions of doing this.

At the end of our meal Javier came to see us and we let Rob speak with him to find out what his plans were for the next day as we were all concerned. He advised us he had spare inner tubes and there was nothing to worry about, (although it was clear he had done nothing to repair the spare, or the one currently with the screw pushed in!) It was also clear if we did have another puncture again Javier would need the aid of another vehicle to remove the tyre so as to replace the inner tube. Rob insisted that Javier guarantees we have another vehicle behind us at all times tomorrow. Javier informed us he had two friends that were drivers also staying the night and they would be leaving in the morning, and he would make sure they stay with us. (The Czech group were staying elsewhere!?) We were happy with this, however the conversation between Rob and Javier seemed to drag on through the night and it was clear Daniel was still a little concerned. I ended up having a small argument with Rob and Daniel which only caused more bad tension between us and later there was a misunderstanding between Rob and Frasier. In the end it was agreed we would leave in the morning with Javier's friends.

It was a very tiring and stressful day and it was quite clear the team was now split. There was myself, Frasier and Joanne with Rob and Daniel joined at the hip!