After a good night's sleep I arose early
and set off for the hike from Yumani to Challapampa. I first headed down the
main high street to take a look at the church and then continued further down
and spotted a restaurant called 'Mirador del Inca' and so decided to stop
for something to eat. I settled for an American breakfast at 20 Bolivianos and
received a cup of coffee, a fried egg and a stale bun with some jam! I was a little
disappointed and just had the coffee and fried egg and left. After breakfast I
walked up the ‘Escalera del Inca’ (Inca Stairway).
I then slowly started my trek westwards along the coastal path. It was great to see the locals going about their daily business and kids going to school. It wasn't long before I bumped into a local heading for the fields to work as he was carrying the ubiquitous tool that you see many locals carrying (I don't know what it is called?) I basically followed him and he took me down into the valley which was clearly a shortcut into Challa! We walked so far together and then he had to leave to enter his field to start work and I carried on into Challa. After a little rest I started the steep cobbled climb out of Challa, and again I saw an array of wonderful characters with their livestock walking about. As I approached the top I could see the path where I would have followed if I’d not bumped into the local, I also saw some backpackers coming along it. They were struggling a little and I continued to walk alone heading down towards Challa beach.
I then slowly started my trek westwards along the coastal path. It was great to see the locals going about their daily business and kids going to school. It wasn't long before I bumped into a local heading for the fields to work as he was carrying the ubiquitous tool that you see many locals carrying (I don't know what it is called?) I basically followed him and he took me down into the valley which was clearly a shortcut into Challa! We walked so far together and then he had to leave to enter his field to start work and I carried on into Challa. After a little rest I started the steep cobbled climb out of Challa, and again I saw an array of wonderful characters with their livestock walking about. As I approached the top I could see the path where I would have followed if I’d not bumped into the local, I also saw some backpackers coming along it. They were struggling a little and I continued to walk alone heading down towards Challa beach.
Hiking from Yumuni to Challapampa
Hiking from Yumuni to Challapampa
Hiking from Yumuni to Challapampa
Challa - Hiking from Yumuni to Challapampa
Challa - Hiking from Yumuni to Challapampa
Challa beach was very pretty
and so I decided to rest a while and soak up the views. I really wanted
something to eat as breakfast was a let down and I spotted a restaurant on
the beach called 'Posada del Inca' and was soon greeted by a lady. At first she
was only happy to serve me water and coffee, but then later she offered to cook
me some food, she suggested fish and so I accepted gladly. The fish was served
on a bed of rice with potatoes and lots of vegetables including green beans and
broccoli, it was a huge plate of food! However I was a little shocked with the
price - 7 Bolivianos for a small bottle of water and a mega 45 Bolivianos for
the meal, the most I have spent since arriving in Bolivia, I think she saw me
coming!
Expensive meal in Challa!
Challa beach
Challa beach
Challa beach
After my mega expensive meal,
I set off once again along the beach and up the steep climb out of Challa
and on towards Challapampa. It was an amazing 45 minutes of hiking along the
exposed rock face, with some amazing views looking out over the lake. When I
arrived in Challapampa it was lunchtime and so I just sat around for a while and
soaked up the views. I then proceeded to hike the final few kilometres to the
Inca sites which were amazing, although a little crowded. I then headed back to
Challapampa hoping to catch a boat back to Copacabana.
Hiking from Yumuni to Challapampa (after leaving Challa)
When I returned to Challapampa I only had
to wait about an hour for a boat (25 Bolivianos), there were a few other
backpackers also taking the trip back to Copacabana. I was amazed it took one
and a half hours to reach Copacabana, when I think it only took 20 minutes for
my boat ride from Sicuani to Pilco Kaina, it proved I must have hiked some way
around the peninsula of Copacabana!
When I landed at Copacabana I decided to head for the hotel opposite where I stayed before called 'Hotel Mirdor'. The rather miserable girl at reception offered me a room with a bathroom for 60 Bolivianos! The room was massive with a nice view overlooking the lake and piping hot water and good Wi-Fi. I was a little annoyed with myself for paying 280 Bolivianos for two nights at the other hotel when I first arrived! I made use of the Wi-Fi straight away and checked my emails; I had a reply from Halifax re: my debit card issue and they confirmed the card should be ok now and they have offered me £20 for my two phone calls and £100 as a gesture of goodwill! I also had an email from the tour company re: my interest in the Apolobamba trek and was I still interested?
After something to eat (more trout!), I decided to visit ‘Andes Amazonia Tours’ again. The guy I spoke to yesterday (Vicente) wasn't around but his wife was. We had a good chat to confirm what was mentioned two days earlier; however she thought I was keen on private transport from Charazani back to La Paz at the end of the trek for an extra 400 dollars, I said a local bus would be fine! We concluded I would be paying for my own fare for the bus to Pelechuco (and the return fare from Charazani), but my guide/cook would be looking after me for the 7 days and the full price was 430 dollars including all the food. I still thought it was expensive, but I was advised my guide would be a young student by the name of William who speaks very good English which I thought would be great. The buses back to La Paz from Charazani apparently run on a Friday, Saturday and Sunday (10am & 12am), and as my last day of trekking would be a Friday all should be fine for myself and William!
I had a coffee and a chocolate pancake at the restaurant I'd visited before when it was pouring with rain and then headed back to my hotel for some much needed rest. Back to La Paz tomorrow morning to take it easy, as I am being picked up on Saturday morning from my hotel at 4am by William in a taxi to go to the bus station in Al Alto. I booked the same hotel as I used when I first arrived, 'Hostal Cruz de los Andes', so they are expecting me.
When I landed at Copacabana I decided to head for the hotel opposite where I stayed before called 'Hotel Mirdor'. The rather miserable girl at reception offered me a room with a bathroom for 60 Bolivianos! The room was massive with a nice view overlooking the lake and piping hot water and good Wi-Fi. I was a little annoyed with myself for paying 280 Bolivianos for two nights at the other hotel when I first arrived! I made use of the Wi-Fi straight away and checked my emails; I had a reply from Halifax re: my debit card issue and they confirmed the card should be ok now and they have offered me £20 for my two phone calls and £100 as a gesture of goodwill! I also had an email from the tour company re: my interest in the Apolobamba trek and was I still interested?
After something to eat (more trout!), I decided to visit ‘Andes Amazonia Tours’ again. The guy I spoke to yesterday (Vicente) wasn't around but his wife was. We had a good chat to confirm what was mentioned two days earlier; however she thought I was keen on private transport from Charazani back to La Paz at the end of the trek for an extra 400 dollars, I said a local bus would be fine! We concluded I would be paying for my own fare for the bus to Pelechuco (and the return fare from Charazani), but my guide/cook would be looking after me for the 7 days and the full price was 430 dollars including all the food. I still thought it was expensive, but I was advised my guide would be a young student by the name of William who speaks very good English which I thought would be great. The buses back to La Paz from Charazani apparently run on a Friday, Saturday and Sunday (10am & 12am), and as my last day of trekking would be a Friday all should be fine for myself and William!
I had a coffee and a chocolate pancake at the restaurant I'd visited before when it was pouring with rain and then headed back to my hotel for some much needed rest. Back to La Paz tomorrow morning to take it easy, as I am being picked up on Saturday morning from my hotel at 4am by William in a taxi to go to the bus station in Al Alto. I booked the same hotel as I used when I first arrived, 'Hostal Cruz de los Andes', so they are expecting me.
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