Wednesday 14 November 2012

Day 12 - The Trans-Apolobamba Trek (Day 4 - Incachani to Lagunillas)

After another cold night, (but not as cold as the previous night) we were ready to leave at 8am. We had porridge oats with cinnamon for breakfast, Freddie had shown me the bag yesterday and I'd said to him I’d wished he had shown me the bag at the start of the trek as it beats cornflakes for breakfast any day!

It was a tough climb out of Incachani, although I was prepared as yesterday Freddie had said it would take 2 hours. However we actually did it in 1 hour and 30 minutes and I think Freddie was impressed, he gave me a 'high five' when we reached the top! I also thought I did really well as I had diarrhea and I had to stop twice!


Incachani to Lagunillas


We rested a little at the top while watching some wild horses climb up the other side looking for new pastures to graze, it was interesting to watch the lead horse make a few steps and rest and then the others would follow him. It was then the long descent down until we reached the hamlet of Jatun Pampa which was a pretty little place with plenty of alpacas grazing and cute thatched cottages, but unfortunately some mad dogs as well!


Incachani to Lagunillas


Incachani to Lagunillas (Mt Akhamani)


Incachani to Lagunillas


Incachani to Lagunillas (The hamlet of Jatun Pampa)


Incachani to Lagunillas (The hamlet of Jatun Pampa)


Incachani to Lagunillas (The hamlet of Jatun Pampa with Mt Akhamani)


Incachani to Lagunillas (The hamlet of Jatun Pampa)


After leaving the hamlet we continued to walk for about 45 minutes before we reached a stream where we stopped for some lunch (near a bridge). Freddie did wonders again with some onions and tuna!


Incachani to Lagunillas


Incachani to Lagunillas (Approaching Lagunillas)


We finally reached Lagunillas at 2pm and I got the impression from Freddie this was record time! (Freddie does seem to know all the shortcuts along the trek.) We decided to camp next to 'Refugios', a hostel which was closed (out of season), Freddie said it would be fine and no one would bother us.

Once we were all setup with our tents we headed across the road to visit a little shop owned by a very old man who Freddie seemed to know. We sat in the cool dark building and drank pop and ate biscuits for a while and chatted with a few locals that popped in!

Incachani to Lagunillas (Lagunillas)


Incachani to Lagunillas (Lagunillas)


Back at the tents, Freddie mentioned something about booking the bus tickets for La Paz on the 16th from Charazani (where we will be tomorrow). I was still feeling a little weak after having diarrhea all day and asked him if he would sort it out for me, which he agreed to. Freddie disappeared for about an hour whilst I had a sleep next to my tent. I started to think back to when I booked the trek with Vincente, he had initially told me I would have to pay for my own transport back to La Paz, however when Vincente's friend and Freddie (my new guide), showed up at my hotel, it was confirmed I would not have to pay?

Freddie returned with two tickets for the bus to La Paz from Charazani which cost 35 Bolivianos. I just gave Freddie the money as I couldn't be bothered to start another argument! However I noticed the dates on the tickets were for tomorrow on the 15th at 10am? (To reach Charazani for this time we would have to be up really early!) Freddie just said everything would be fine, I wasn't so sure! He also mentioned the bus would take us all the way to the ‘cemetery district’, rather than El Alto, which will save on a taxi fare at least!

Freddie cooked another amazing evening meal; he is quite a chef as he uses a few herbs and spices in his dishes! We sat together eating whilst the mist started to creep in and we watched the locals bring in their animals from the hills for the night. I like Lagunillas as it seems a very peaceful place, none of the locals seem to bother you, but the place does have its fair share of crazy dogs!

Incachani to Lagunillas (Lagunillas)



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