Day 18 - Potosi & Cerro Rico

After having my amazing breakfast of a jam bun and coffee at my hotel, I made my way to 'Big Deal Tours'. Efran was there and so was his mate Pedro. It wasn't long before a group of nine of us were gathered outside the tour shop, including some French, Brazilian and Irish travellers.  We all squeezed into a minibus and headed off south to visit the 'miners market' where we all bought a bag of coca leaves and a bottle of pop each for the miners. Some of us including myself also bought some dynamite!

The 'miners market' in Potosi

After we bought our presents for the miners we visited a nearby building to get changed into our miner's uniform, which included overalls to protect our own clothes, rubber boots, a helmet and a small bag attached to our backs so we could carry the presents. We then drove further up the mountain and stopped for a few minutes so we could take a few photographs overlooking Potosi. We then made our way up the mountain a little more to visit the mineral refinery factory, which was very basic. We saw how the minerals such as silver, lead and tin were extracted from the ore with the use of lots of water and arsenic! It was here we split into two groups, I went with four others and Efran (English speaking tour), and the five others went with Pedro (Spanish speaking tour).

Heading towards Cerro Rico - Potosi

My guide and I chewing coca leaves!

The refinery factory in Potosi

The refinery factory in Potosi (Silver!)

The mining village at Cerro Rico

The mining village at Cerro Rico

The mining village at Cerro Rico

It was soon time to enter the mine through one of the main shafts, which still had stones lining the outside from colonial times. As we descended into the passageway it became narrower and less well made. It wasn't long before we were given the warning by Efran of a barrow laden with ore coming in our direction, and so we quickly had to move out of the way! Soon we reached a place in the mine where we all could sit down, and Efran could tell us a little about his time in the mine when he was younger and the miner's lives in general which was very fascinating. Whilst we were sat down quite a few miners passed by, often pushing a barrow of ore, which looked incredibly hard work in the heat and squalid atmosphere. All the miners we saw had their cheeks packed full of coca leaves. As they passed we handed out some of the bottles of pop which they seemed to really appreciate.

The mine shaft we are about to enter!

Heading into the mine shaft

Miners at work - Cerro Rico

Miners at work - Cerro Rico

After our rest we set off again and visited a deep vertical shaft where some miners were working someway down; it looked an incredibly confined place to work. We left some dynamite with the miners so they could use it later in the day. I later learned they don't normally use the dynamite until late in the afternoon because of all the dust that is created. We then had to climb up three sets of ladders to reach another shaft, and it was here we met the famous El Tio with his amazing large phallus! He was quite a character with his pointed ears and scary eyes. It was here we all had a sip of the 95% proof sugar cane which the miners drink! After sitting a while with El Tio it was about another twenty minutes walk to the outside of the shaft, where I think we were all quite relieved to be out in the fresh air again.

Looking down into a shaft - Cerro Rico

El Tio - Cerro Rico

Neat cane alcohol for the miners!

Copper stalactites in the mine

Finally coming out of the mine!

We still had some dynamite left and so we asked Efran if he would set off one stick outside the mine for us. He agreed and we all walked a distance from the shaft onto some dry waste land and Efran then lit the fuse and offered it to me as a joke, I handled it for a while before passing it to someone else! Efran then took it and walked some distance from us to lay it down, where he then proceeded to do some press-ups next to it! After about another minute it finally blew, and we were all quite shocked at how loud it was!

We all jumped in the minibus and made our way back to the 'miners market' to get changed before returning to the tour shop in town where we all said our goodbyes. I asked Efran if he could call the bus company (as he promised he would), to check out the bus times for a possible night bus to Tupiza? Unfortunately he could not get through, so I thanked him and decided I would catch a bus to the station and check myself. I arrived at the bus station at 2pm, and discovered there was a bus to Tupiza at 2:30pm, which was no use to me as I had all my gear back at my hotel! I was also told this was the last bus of the day, and so it looked as if I would have to spend another day in Potosi (National census day tomorrow!) I jumped on another bus and headed back into town.

I decided to have a late lunch at 'Sumaj Orcko' which was a great 'almuerzo' for 15 Bolivianos. I later walked around the town for a couple of hours taking some photographs of some of the old buildings, whilst popping into a few shops to stock up with provisions for tomorrow, as all the shops and restaurants would be closed.

'Samaj Orcko' restaurant in Potosi

Old colonial buildings of Potosi - Calle Chuquisaca

Old colonial buildings of Potosi

Old colonial buildings of Potosi

Old colonial buildings of Potosi

Old colonial buildings of Potosi

Old colonial buildings of Potosi

I later decided to head towards the tall modern tower in Potosi that appeared to have a cafe at the top. As I approached the top of the road and at the foot of the tower, I could see I had to take a lift to the top (there was a sign telling me I would be charged for the privilege!) When I reached the top and entered the cafe I wasn't impressed at all, it all looked a bit shabby. I ordered a coke and a double cheese burger, but when it finally came it was smothered in mayonnaise and tomato sauce which I never asked for! The actual burger wasn't very nice anyway and so I decided to leave it. I tried to tell the man at the bar why I had left it but he didn't seem bothered, I basically just wasted 34 Bolivianos including the entrance fee! I later realised you get exactly the same views at the top of the road where the tower stands without the need to enter the tower itself.

Potosi

Potosi

Before returning to my hotel (for some much needed washing to be done) I visited another fast food place nearby and had burger and chips!