Day 5 - Copacabana to Sicuani (hike) & a boat to the Isla del Sol

After some almighty thunder and lightning last night I awoke early eager to set off hiking to Yampupata. I checked out of my hotel and headed towards the Plaza and found another food stall that was great value for money. 'Café con leche y pan' for 4 Bolivianos, and I also bought a large plate of 'buñuelos'. I bagged a few buñuelos for my hike (I also still had my bag of figs I’d bought yesterday) and set off out of town.

It was really nice walking along the lake and the views were amazing which made for some very scenic photographs. It was really interesting seeing the locals working in the fields, it would appear both husband and wife work side by side which is rather nice! The abundance of the mud bricked houses was also a delight to see.

Hiking from Copacabana to Sicuani

Hiking from Copacabana to Sicuani

Mud brick house - Hiking from Copacabana to Sicuani

When I arrived in Sicuani, (Yampupata was 4kms away) I noticed the sign for 'Senor Hilario Quipe' listing his hotel and the hire of boats. (I'd read about this man in my guide book and the plan was to travel across from here in a traditional reed boat called a 'totora' to the Isle del Sol.) It wasn't long before the man himself appeared and introduced himself, but unfortunately there was no reed boats, only a couple of stacks of reeds in preparation to build one! I was a bit disappointed but Senor Quipe offered to take me across in his motor boat instead at a price of 100 Bolivianos. I did think this was quite a lot, but Senor Quipe did imply 60 Bolivianos was for fuel alone! Nine Bolivianos a litre? I think not! I didn't argue as he was such a nice man.

When we boarded the boat it was apparent it was holding a lot of water and Senor Quipe had to bail her out! He filled a very large bucket whilst scooping out the water from the bottom of the boat using a small container, whilst I emptied the bucket over board. Approximately 25 buckets later we were all done! It was a nice little trip across to the island (taking about 20 minutes) and Senor Quipe dropped me off on the far side (east) of the island by the Inca ruins (Pilco Kaina).

Bailing out the boat! (Sicuani to Isle del Sol)

Leaving Sicuani for Isle del Sol

It was quite a hike across to the ruins (by now I was a little tired from the earlier hike). There was a local man nearby who asked for 5 Bolivianos entrance fee for landing on the island who presented me with a ticket. It was then quite a steep climb up to reach the path which leads to Yumani. I walked for a while passing a few locals with their lamas which was nice to see and I was able to take a few photographs which was great. At the top of the climb was a little restaurant and as I was absolutely starving I stopped for a bite to eat. It was also a wonderful place to eat with such stunning views. A *lady came out to greet me and we agreed on an omelette with salad and potatoes, which was lovely. She charged me 25 Bolivianos which I thought was reasonable in such a 'touristy’ area, the 10 Bolivianos for a 2 litre bottle of water was a little shock though! (They do have to carry these goods up the hill I suppose!) Nearby to the restaurant was an old lady who was embroidering hat bands and also selling a few other goods, I bought a couple of clay whistles.

*The lady also has cheap accommodation and will also let you pitch a tent

Isle del Sol

Food with a view! - Isle del Sol

Nice lady on the Isle del Sol

Nice lady on the Isle del Sol

It was approximately another 30 minutes before I reached Yumani, and by now I was quite tired. I stopped at a cafe for a coffee and a packet of biscuits, and then headed for Hostal Puerta del Sol, but when I arrived there was no one to be seen? I walked around inside and shouted, but nothing!? So I left and later thought I should have just taken one of the rooms and just helped myself! I headed down the main steep path and was soon approached by a young boy offering a room at his parents hotel. I followed him and before too long we arrived and he showed me the room which was fine and he said the price would be 40 Bolivianos, which I thought was an amazing price! The boy took me to someone older at the reception and I showed my passport and paid the 40 Bolivianos and the deal was done, I returned to my room for some much needed sleep.

A couple of hours later there was a knock on my door, it was a lady who basically proceeded to tell me I should have paid 60 Bolivianos as my room had a shower! I told her the boy must have known the room had a shower, I decided just to pay up. I was more annoyed at being disturbed having my sleep! (It was still a bargain)